Three real options
Every deck conversation comes down to pressure-treated wood, wood-composite, or PVC. They are genuinely different products, not three price tiers of the same thing.
Pressure-treated wood
Cheapest to build. Also the only one of the three that requires you to do something every year or two — clean, and seal or stain — or it greys, splits, and starts throwing splinters. Missouri's freeze-thaw cycle is hard on wood. A wood deck that gets maintained lasts a long time. A wood deck that gets ignored looks rough in about four summers.
It's the right answer if the budget is firm and you're genuinely willing to maintain it. Be honest with yourself about that second part.
Wood-composite
A mix of wood flour and plastic. Much lower maintenance than wood, good color range, solid mid-range cost. The catch is the word "wood" — there is organic material in the board, and organic material in a damp shaded spot can grow mold and hold stains.
PVC
No wood content at all. Nothing in the board for mold to eat, nothing to absorb water. Highest up-front cost of the three, lowest ongoing cost of the three. We install Wolf Serenity, which is the PVC line we've had the best long-term results with.
Where PVC clearly wins
- Shaded and damp decks. North-facing, under tree cover, or low to the ground with poor airflow underneath. This is where composite disappoints people and PVC doesn't.
- Anywhere near water. Pools, hot tubs, spray zones.
- Owners who will never maintain it. That's not an insult — most people won't. Buy the product that matches your actual behavior, not your intended behavior.
- Long-term ownership. The up-front premium amortizes over decades and zero refinishing weekends.
Where we'd steer you elsewhere
- Tight budget and a genuine willingness to maintain — build it in treated wood and put the savings into a bigger deck or better railing.
- Selling within a couple of years. You will not recover the PVC premium at closing.
- You want the look and feel of real wood specifically. PVC has come a long way, but it is not wood and honest people don't pretend otherwise.
The part that matters more than the decking
Here's the thing that decides whether a deck lasts: the frame underneath and the connection to the house.
Almost every failed deck we're called out to look at failed at the ledger — the board bolting the deck to the house — or at the footings. Not at the decking. You can put the most expensive PVC boards made on top of an undersized frame with a badly flashed ledger and you've built a very handsome problem.
Proper footings below frost depth, correct ledger fasteners, and flashing that actually keeps water out of the rim joist are what make a deck last thirty years. That's also the part a homeowner can't see once it's built, which is exactly why it's the part to ask about.
Permits
Decks inside city limits nearly always require one, and the permit brings setback distances, height limits, railing requirements, and footing inspections with it. This is genuinely one of the trades where the paperwork matters. We confirm the requirement with your municipality before the build, pull it, and meet the inspector.
Free Estimate
No pressure, no obligation. We’ll tell you if you don’t need the work.